Carolyn McFann asked:


After spending many vacations in Cancun, Mexico, I decided to take the plunge and move there to study the beautiful nature I’d admired in my previous trips. Having lived many years in the comfort and safety of American suburbia, it was time for some adventure. After learning Spanish, I went to the Yucatan and rented a home in suburban Playa del Carmen and hired myself a maid. Then, with help from hired guides and friends, I visited a variety of remote places in the Mexican jungles. It was an unforgettable experience to see a variety of animals in their natural habitats.

The ever-growing city of Playa del Carmen is an hour south of Cancun, and easily accessed by public buses. Both cities are on the Caribbean Sea, where coral reefs abound up and down the coastline. The beauty of pure white, limestone sand, and richly colored, turquoise water of the ocean drew me down there. Being a nature artist, I was fascinated by the plants and animals of the region. Armed with my cameras, drawing paper and pens, I got to work drawing and photographing bugs, birds, plants and anything else exotic. Soon, my artwork landed me a job as main illustrator for a large nature park called XCaret.

Whenever I had a drawing to deliver to my employer, I would board the employee bus for XCaret, and then walk down a long, back jungle path next to the park to the office. These walks fascinated me, due to the path was directly next to fenced enclosures for their zoo and aviary. Flamingoes, spider monkeys and a harpy eagle were animals I could see the best from the path. One time I made the mistake of giving one of the monkeys a cookie, only to see the other monkeys chase after him to steal it, trying to beat him up! I quickly got out a couple more cookies and gave the rest to them, to avoid the original monkey from getting hurt. They all sat there munching peacefully as I snuck off, hoping nobody saw.

In Mexico, you will see iguanas in nature frequently. As I walked down the nature path on my way to work, there was rustling in the big tree near me. I looked up only to see a large, 6 foot green iguana male with bright orange fringe on his back, in the canopy of the tree. He looked down at me. I remember people telling me that iguanas are good eating, taste like chicken, and that they are called “chicken of the tree”. I never found out if that was true or not, but then, I wasn’t about to go eating iguanas. Nope, I’m not that adventurous in my dining choices. Black iguanas can be seen usually sitting one per rock pile. Everywhere there were rocks, were male iguanas sunning themselves. Interesting creatures. In Chankanaab Park (on the island of Cozumel) there is a huge iguana that walks around public areas, oblivious to the humans that walk past it. It will bite if petted, the park employee told me. So, I took photos of it and kept my distance.

Another lizard that was interesting and plentiful, was Basiliscus basiliscus, the basilisk. There are a few varieties of basilisk to be found in Mexico. It can run on water if it gets scared enough, and I witnessed it after scaring one unintentionally. Later, I found a smaller one and drew it for my job, they have intense eyes, looking very serious. When I was finished drawing him, he ran upright into the jungle, glad to be free of the big, scary human with whom he’d spent a few hours with.

The jungles of Mexico are fascinating, but I would never recommend walking off your path into one. First off, the foliage is very dense. Second, there are critters in there that can hurt you if provoked, namely scorpions, snakes and spiders. Look, but don’t touch. I have seen all of these, and have paid people to remove them from my home. Scorpions will come after you if they are agitated. Back away quickly, wherever they cannot follow. The lighter colored ones, I was told, are more dangerous than the black ones. There are tarantulas in Mexico, and they are big but not aggressive, thank goodness. I had a red-kneed tarantula taken away from the front of my door once. My maid used to throw out other spiders she found inside, and laugh when I would be freaked out by them. “This? It’s harmless!” she’d tell me. Yuck. I took her word for it.

As for snakes, there are a few that are reason enough not to go walking alone in the jungle. First, there are huge boa constrictors. My ex-husband was called by the ladies next door, to remove a 6-foot boa out of their rental flat. They said it just slithered into the open back door. Lesson learned, never leave an open door to your house if you live close to the jungle. Then, there is a crimson colored snake the locals called Coralio. I don’t know its scientific name, but it was beautiful but deadly. A man who lived near me had a whole apartment full of snakes, and he showed them to me up close. Snakes are interesting but it pays to watch where you step, since my ex and I nearly stepped on one during an evening walk. There are other snakes to watch out for, but these are the kinds that we saw. All snakes will mind their own business if unprovoked, it seems, trouble seems to be when humans aren’t paying attention and step on one by mistake. So, it pays to watch where you walk.

Then there were the amazing birds. A gorgeous variety of colors, shapes and sizes, birds in Mexico are exotic and fascinating. My favorites were the toco toucan, motmot, currasows, Yucatan jay, cinnamon-colored cuckoo, and pileated woodpecker and violaceous trogon (a relative of the resplendent quetzal). They had a knack for showing themselves whenever I didn’t have my camera with me. I did draw and take notes of what I saw, then look them up later. There was a bird that was so colorful that locals called it, “siete colores” (seven colors). After looking it up, I identified it as a painted bunting. Another bird locals call “pecho amarillo”(yellow breast), otherwise known as the great kiskadee, used to sit outside my window and yell, “Eeee, Eeee!” at the top of his lungs. We used to call back at him, and he’d answer. Very funny bird.

In Playa del Carmen, there is an outdoor aviary, built into the jungle, in the Playacar section. I went in there and walked around, to see the different birds that usually are hidden by jungle. One bird took a fancy to me, a barred currasow who followed me everywhere. She was my feathered tour guide, and posed for photos freely. I finally got to see a chachalaca up close, a relative to a turkey, that is shy, loud (its call sounds like a rusty meat grinder), and travels in groups. Also, there were red ibis, more flamingos, egrets, and much more. The aviary is a must see if you visit Playacar.

Another interesting natural sector in the Yucatan were all the bugs. Insects of every kind, in great quantities. I could’ve done without all the mosquitoes, though, thank goodness for bug repellent. My favorites were the butterflies. Sometimes when driving down remote roads, we came across undulating masses of various butterfiles colored yellow, white or black. Monarch butterflies also migrate in large groups down to Mexico, I saw them once, too. The most beautiful butterfly I came across in the wild, in my opinion, was the morpho butterfly. It has large irridescent blue wings, wasn’t as common as other butterflies, and preferred the privacy of non-populated areas like fields and jungles. There was another butterfly that was big, brown and with its wings closed, was the size of a large dinner plate. It was called an owl butterfly, and flew slowly. I got really close to him and he seemed unafraid. He had patterns on his wings that were like numbers. Fascinating.

Beetles. Ahh, beetles..not very graceful, and apparently not all that bright, but endearing with their less than graceful antics. There were golden scarab beetles that used to fly into my window as I was working, frequently. They usually landed on their backs with their feet flailing helplessly in the air. Eventually the situation would rely on me turning them right-side up, some would then fly off, others would somehow end up on their backs again. It was odd, but I took the opportunity to draw these metallically colored insects, who looked as if they were gilded in brushed gold.

Grasshoppers and katydids are in large quantity in the jungles of the Yucatan. There are so many varieties of grasshoppers, I lost count. As for katydids. their bodies are gigantic, the size of a sparrow. I caught one, to draw him, then when I let him go off my balcony, he flew away in a straight path. His big, green body was visible for a very long time as he flapped off into the sunset, it was surreal.

Sea creatures and fish are plentiful in the Caribbean Sea. Though the reefs are endangered and show signs of damage, they are still beautiful. Every day, I’d snorkel in the low-traffic area near my home. It was serene to get to the beach early in the morning, pick up a few shells that washed up on shore, then make my spot on the beach. I’d snorkel until my body got cold, every day. There weren’t many large predators in the areas I swam in, due to the breakwalls that run up and down the coast, separating the shores from the deeper, ocean water. Once in awhile, a barracuda would find its way into the reef area, my, what big teeth they have. Out there, you can see dolphins playing in the waves made by large yachts or ferries. Bottle-nosed dolphins are very social creatures and seem unafraid of humans. Some of the most memorable smaller fish and creatures I saw were brittle starfish (they live under rocks and will climb off your hand quickly if you try to hold one), octopus, conch, sea turtles, moray eels, blue tangs and of course, those feisty damselfish. Though I haven’t gotten my scuba license, I went on a few professional scuba tours where the water was so shallow, snorkeling was possible. Tours are great for finding gorgeous coral gardens that aren’t visible to everyone else. The prettiest ones I saw were near the town of Puerto Morelos.

Other places I liked to explore were the Cenotes Azul, and Dos Ojos. Cenotes are brackish water natural bodies of water that the Mayan indians used to build their villages around. Now, they sit in the jungle and tourists enter them to go cave diving. Underneath the Yucatan is an elaborate network of caves that attract cave-divers from all over the world. Not me, I preferred just swimming in the crystal clear water in the mouth of the cenotes, and observing the fish I saw. One of the cenotes had fish that I’d seen in pet stores back in the US, swimming there naturally. Jack Dempsey fish and green sailfin mollies, along with a kind of livebearer fish I didn’t recognise. They were very colorful, and the Dempseys, being combative cichlids who like to pick on one another, had tattered fins. But, all the fish were very healthy. What a wonder it is to swim among them in their natural habitat. The nature around cenotes is interesting, too. I saw a basilisk run across the water, when I swam too close to him, and a duck that would dive for fish and stay underwater for a long time. Nature abounds in and around cenotes.

The nature of Mexico is plentiful and beautiful in all its forms. The tropical, hot climate brings out flora and fauna unlike anything I’ve ever seen in my home state of Ohio, or even in my current state of Florida. Living among the lush jungles, hearing jungle frogs sing at night and spending time with my wonderful Mexican co-workers, guides and friends changed my life. By being respectful of nature (look, don’t touch) and watching where you walk, you will see clouds of butterflies, brilliantly colored birds, and animals like coatimundis, agoutis and others normally only seen in zoos. My employer promoted the preservation of Mexico’s wildlife, and it was my honor doing artwork of all things natural for them. I miss walking the jungle path to their office weekly and seeing the zoo animals, as well as the wild ones in the trees. If you love nature, make sure to visit Mexico and go on tours to see the beauty of the wild, but with professionals who know where to take you. It will be an experience you will appreciate and remember forever.

Stephen Hansen asked:


Duende Tours will offers you a tour of the Tulum, Mexico ruins as part of optional package that also includes a trip to Chichen Itza, before or after your Mayan jungle Excursion. Below is synopsis of what the Tulum Ruins are like and what you can expect from the site.

The town of Tulum, Mexico has an aura of tranquility and beauty. The town is situated on the coast of the Riviera Maya South of Cancun and Playa Del Carmen, near the Guatemala-Belize Border. The town’s primary industry, like that of its sister cities in the Riviera Maya is tourism. All long the beaches one can find eco-lodges and cabanas spread amongst the pristine fine white sand. Within the quaint town, small international and domestic palapa-style restaurants line the main road. But by far the main attraction to Tulum is its fantastic Ruins.

The Tulum ruins epitomize the town’s essence and beauty. Established on a bluff overlooking the Caribbean, these small but magical ruins yield awes and spectacular scenes. Although not it’s original name, Tulum means “wall” in Quintana Roo Maya. According to historians the Tulum ruins were formally named, “Zama”, which means, “to Dawn”. Tulum was the name given to the location upon its rediscovery by Stephens and Catherwood before the Caste War in 1847.

According to regional historians, Tulum was a major port for the Maya’s vast extensive trade network. Land and maritime trade routes met in Tulum, Mexico. Artifacts found in the Tulum ruins ranged in origin from central Mexico to Central America, confirming the theory of expansive trade capacity. It is theorized that the city lay in ruins after the decimation of its native population by the diseases brought over from Europe. Visiting the Tulum ruins today, tourists can still find relatively well-preserved structures on the ancient pre-hispanic site. These political and religious structures are those that best survived the elements after their abandonment. Remnants of other minor buildings lay scattered.

Carolyn McFann asked:


Living in Mexico was an adventurous fairytale; due to the variety of things to do, beauty of the country and the kindness of its residents. I am originally from Ohio but spent substantial time living in Mexico, studying the nature and history of this beautiful place. Here are some ideas and tips I learned from being there that may help you on your next trip to the Yucatan Peninsula.

Using the public bus system is infinitely cheaper than taking taxis everywhere. If you are looking for cheaper transportation to and from the airport, take the bus to downtown Playa del Carmen or Cancun. It is easy and the bus stations are centrally located in both cities. You can choose to ride an air-conditioned bus for a small amount more than the non air-conditioned bus. I would use either, whoever left soonest. There are bus schedules posted for local travel or throughout the country. The nicest buses when I was there were the plush tour buses for longer trips, called ADO. Really nice buses that cost more but are worth it.

If you need to make phone calls in Mexico, buy a phone card there and use them from any pay phone. They can be used to call internationally as well. The locals, many of which do not have phones in their homes, use them all the time. You can buy them in the Casas de Cambio (places where you can exchange your money into Mexican pesos). A note on exchanging your money, check around, to look for the best exchange rates as they may vary place to place.

Those who don’t scuba can enjoy the beauty of the underwater coral gardens and scenery by snorkeling. Go to the scuba shops and inquire about what excursions they offer for snorkelers, or ask your resort’s front desk if you can sign up for snorkeling tours there at the hotel. Wear sunscreen while doing this daytrip, don’t expect a white t-shirt to protect you, because it won’t. If you don’t use sun protection, you will come back lobster-red, trust me.

A word about avoiding Turista (Montezuma’s Revenge, the Tourist Trots). These very unpleasant bacterial infections happen, frequently, to travellers. To avoid spending most of your vacation in the bathroom recuperating, I suggest you don’t eat raw fruit (unless it’s already peeled), and don’t drink drinks that have ice that isn’t round, with a hole in it (purified water ice cubes). The large resorts’ food is safe, as far as I have experienced. I’ve stayed in a few before moving to Mexico and never got sick by eating or drinking their food. Big resorts take precautions against contaminated foods and drink. But, out on the street, those bacteria free float into the food offered at taco stands (and I love those, by the way), and wherever fruit is sold. If you buy fruit, peel before eating it. If it isn’t peelable, then forget it. Drink purified, bottled water at all times. If you go to day-long trips out in the heat, bring a gallon jug of water, you will need it.

Hire only qualified tour guides through reputable agencies (usually found through the hotels or your travel agent). Don’t use freelance tour guides because I was told when living there that some will make information up as they go along. Independent tour guides will approach you at places like the ruins of Coba, Chichen Itza and Tulum, for example. Go with a tour group to these places. I liked the Apple tours, but there are many others that are good, too. Ask around to see who are most highly recommended. Chichen Itza is a big site, worthy of seeing, if you are going to choose a sight to see. The pyramid there, called El Castillo, is spectacular. I have been inside it (very, incredibly claustrophobic if you decide to brave it up the narrow stairway inside) and on top of it (steep stairs lead up to a few small rooms on the top, where nobility would perform rituals, etc.) Take a camera and stop at the nearby hotel for lunch if you have the chance. There was a show there where dancers in Mayan dress entertained us as our group ate there. It was a good break from the heat of sightseeing this ancient city. Word to the wise, bringing a family-size vat of sunscreen wouldn’t be a bad idea. And as much water as possible. Walking around the site all day will dehydrate and bake you if you aren’t careful.

Check out the cenotes (lakes of brackish water in the jungle), accessed by taking buses or taxi, along the Playa del Carmen-Tulum corridor. I liked going to the Cenote Azul or the Cenote Dos Ojos. Cenotes attract nature, and while visiting them, I saw a variety of fascinating flora and fauna from basilisk lizards to a diving duck. Cenotes are the entrance points to underwater caves, which are only safe to go to with certified dive experts. Underneath the Yucatan peninsula there are a large network of underground caves that expert divers like to explore. Do not attempt to dive these on your own, because it is dangerous. If you want to see what an underground cave is like, go nearby to the nature park of Xcaret, where there are underwater caves for the public to swim in.

Speaking of Xcaret, it is a must to visit if you love nature. It is full of educational activities and fun things to do for the whole family. Expect to spend an entire day there. There is swimming with dolphins, horseback riding, exploring an ancient Mayan village, seeing Mayan dancing shows, snorkeling in a large lagoon, all built into the jungles. It is a top-class place, and even has its own small zoo, butterfly garden and aviary. I know, I used to be the main illustrator for the park years ago. The restaurants are atmospheric and the food is good. Don’t forget to see the Mayan musicians do their flying pole exhibition, which is done all day long. They start on top of a pole, and “fly” down, while playing their instruments, while hanging from ropes by their ankles. You won’t see anything quite like it out of this region. Xcaret has a variety of natural history exhibits near their large gift shop. It is a “must” for all.

If you want a fun trip by boat, go to Playa Linda (in the Hotel Zone of Cancun) and hop a boat over to Isla Mujeres. Aqua Tours has a big, luxurious yacht that goes over there a few times a day. On the way to the island, you are served drinks, are entertained by the staff and get a great view of the Cancun coastline. Once at Isla Mujeres, you are taken on excursions to places like Tortugranja (a sea turtle farm, where they raise endangered sea turtles from small to large), or Hacienda Mundaca (a supposed former estate of an ex-pirate, who built it for his love interest, according to local legend). They offer snorkeling, too. It’s a fun day trip, and the shopping is pretty good on the island, too.

Another interesting place to visit is Merida, the capital city of the state of Quintana Roo (where Cancun is located). It reminded me of Europe, with its lovely, large mansions,outdoor cafes and stately buildings. There, you will find the United States embassy, among others. If you need to replace a lost passport or talk to embassy officials, this is where you want to go. It is a very international place, worth the very long bus ride from Cancun.

Downtown Cancun has a few interesting places to shop. There are authentic food and crafts at Plaza 2000, or see Chedraui (a department/ grocery store), or Pelicano (another general merchandise store). I haven’t been to Cancun since the devastating hurricane there, so check to see if these places are still in operation, if so, they are definitely worth going to. Take a bus or taxi to these places, to get a more “authentic” Mexican experience. Staying just in the Hotel Zone is fun, but not a slice of everyday Mexican life. Try some of the great food stands where the locals go. I love the chicken cooked on spits everywhere, called “Pollo Rojo” (red chicken) due to the spices used. It is to die for and incredibly cheap. If you see people on the street selling tamales, try them, they are excellent and really cheap. I could easily eat my way through Mexico by living on tamales (meat inside a corn-based “cake”) and empanadas (meat turnovers) alone. If you buy bakery items in Mexico at the grocery stores, bear in mind that they use much less sugar than Americans are used to having, in their recipes. I like the Conchitas, breads shaped like shells. If you want sweets, buy the cakes sold under the brand name

“Bimbo” (yes, that is the name of it). It is a major bread and snack food producer in Mexico.

Enjoy your stay in the lovely Mayan Riviera. Walk the beaches and admire that stunningly turquoise water, it is truly paradise. Enjoy the hospitality of the friendly and helpful Mexican nationals. Remember to have fun, but remember, it is a foreign country, so obey their laws and be respectful of the differences in culture. If you go, you’ll want to go back again and again. I know I did. The more you go, the more you know. Living in the Yucatan was an unforgettable experience, visiting there is too, so make it a memorable trip for yourself by seeing as much of it as you can. You won’t be disappointed.